Wednesday 23 September – Carrickfergus to Home

 

No urgent rush as we don't have to be at the port until 11.00 so after a leisurely breakfast we headed out at 10.00 for the 20 minute drive. Checked in, a half hour wait before boarding then found a quiet comfortable spot, the ship leaving bang on time. A quick coffee then later some lunch so that we don't have to bother with a stop as soon as we land.

A smooth crossing and we were clear of the port by 2.00 pm. Jamie seemed okay so we carried on, making a good time despite the reasonably heavy traffic. Paused for a comfort and cuppa stop near Dumfries but seemed to have caught up with last nights rain which became progressively heavier the closer to home we got.

Home around 6.30 pm and we managed to unload what we needed for tonight before the rain became too heavy – as usual we'll do the rest tomorrow, weather permitting!

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We've enjoyed our trip, achieving what we set out to do. It's a shame that the coronavirus situation meant many places we maybe would have visited were closed and we resolved to return again to Ireland when the situation eventually improves. Having somebody to travel with made the whole experience more enjoyable and we're sure Colin and Tina enjoyed it all too.

As always we've returned with a list of repairs to Bertie, nothing serious or problematical, just needs a few days of good weather and a toolbox! We've already ordered the spares we think we'll need, which were waiting when we got home.

As for our next trip? It doesn't look like Covid-19 is going away at any time soon so we'll have to think seriously about our winter break – Morocco definitely looks out of the question so we'll have to monitor the situation elsewhere very carefully. Meanwhile we'll maybe have a few extra days away if we get a nice weather spell.

Tuesday 22 September – Carrickfergus

A little breezy during the night and the branches of the tree we were under kept scraping across the roof. Also we were parked quite close to the road and, being a main road, there was traffic noise pretty well all through the night. However it was easy enough to “tune out” and we got a good nights sleep once the “local yoof” had finished showing off their driving “skills” round the car park.

Awoke to a greyish day but with nothing to rush for we took our time over breakfast and sorting out. We had nothing planned but if the weather had been nicer we would perhaps have had a look around the town – unfortunately the castle was closed too. Bren popped across to Sainsburys to make sure we had enough groceries when we got home but apart from exercising Jamie we then stayed indoors for the afternoon, especially when it started to drizzle and later turn to rain.

Being our last evening we thought we'd go out for a meal and walked across to the Brewers Fayre. Due to the coronavirus situation they were operating at a reduced capacity and couldn't accommodate us, but booked us in for a little later and then phoned us when a table was free. It was therefore a little strange to see the place was all but empty, but the hostess explained that they'd had a raft of bookings from the hotel – they were all “table for one” and had mostly finished when we arrived.

So after an enjoyable meal we returned to Bertie for an earlyish night, of course taking Jamie out for his final evening constitutional.

 

Monday 21 September – Hook Head to Carrickfergus

 

An earlyish start to an absolutely beautiful morning – this really is probably one of the best “wild camping” sites we've been on this trip, but then again the weather does help! 

 

But now we have to say bye-bye to Colin and Tina, our three-week travelling companions and start heading north. We were not sure of how far we would go today as we have two days to reach Belfast so opted to avoid the motorways and just stick to the “N” roads which are generally very good and, apart from in the towns and villages, we travel no faster on the motorways. So a bit of backtracking to New Ross then made our way to Tullow, where we refuelled which will be more than enough to get us home. We enjoyed a very quiet and scenic run before looking for a lunch stop; we tried for a picnic spot but couldn't find it then another but which had a height barrier. There was not much else so we reverted to our regular trick and went into Aldi's carpark in Blessington, making a few purchases of course.

Bren had espied a national lace centre at the small town of Carrickmacross, which was more or less on our route, so making good time we headed there – only to find of course that it was closed due to the coronavirus outbreak. A quick stop therefore to re-plan and we decided that as we were already quite far north we'd just head straight for Carrickfergus, our planned stop just north of Belfast.

TomTom took us onto the main motorways which took us around Dublin, nearly getting it wrong at one point and just missing a lane separator, then onto the main route to Belfast, also passing through an automated toll – must remember to pay that later. We pulled in to a layby just before the border for a cuppa and were appalled at the litter, something we'd not encountered anywhere else in the Republic. Was it because we were almost back into the UK?

Then Nellie decided to be uncooperative and wouldn't track so we could publish our day map. Not to worry, it was only a small section which could be “pencilled” back in later. Around Belfast again on the motorway system before arriving at the big carpark by the castle at Carrickfergus. There were already a couple of vans parked up so we slotted in alongside them, emptied the loo (there is a service point here) and settled in for the night.

As our ferry isn't until Wednesday we'll probably stay put here and maybe go out for a final holiday meal – there are several options around.

Sunday 20 September – Blarney, Waterford then Hook Head

 

As we had a two hour drive to Waterford today we were up very early, for us anyway, to another bright sunny if dew-soaked morning. Breakfast, service the van then away around Cork and onto excellent main roads – made a nice change!

Our plan today was to take a factory tour around Waterford Crystal so we wanted to be there as early as we could. We found the dedicated parking and managed to slot into a couple of larger bays at the back of the carpark and take a two minute walk. We were lucky to find the next tour was in 15 mins so booked onto it then mooched around the showroom until our time.

We were surprised to find how compact the factory is, although we learned later this was not the original. Our excellent guide went through the history of Waterford Crystal before taking us around the factory, which even on a Sunday was fully working. We learned that to be a craftsman took a 5 year apprenticeship and if you completed the test piece, a remarkably simple looking bowl but on closer examination it used every skill needed, then you continued for another 3 years training before being recognised as a true craftsman. Be it blowing, cutting, engraving or sculpture that was the skill you learned in the 8 years “apprenticeship” - there was never any crossover.

We saw every aspect from the raw materials right up to the final finish, some pieces taking up to 5 months – and if there was ever a fault or mistake at any stage it was scrapped, it had to be perfect! Here is a montage of some of what we saw:

 

Once the tour was completed we were returned to the showroom (naturally) where Bren chose a new necklace for her birthday in a couple of weeks time (they had a sale on..............!) then return to the van for lunch. For our nightstop tonight, although technically we could have stayed where we were, we had picked out a wild-camping spot at Hook Head, across the bay and at the end of a landspit where reputedly the oldest working lighthouse in the world was located. TomTom was programmed and we rejoined more good roads before turning off towards Hook Head.

This is very obviously a popular tourist spot with tours of the lighthouse, cafe and giftshop and a childrens play area too, not to mention the nice views across the bay back to Waterford. Being a lovely Sunday afternoon everybody and their kids were out for the afternoon and we had some difficulty finding somewhere to stop. However as it was late afternoon people were beginning to return home and before long we had a choice of parking spots. We chose a fairly level gravelled area off the edge of the road and settled in for the evening, watching the sun set over Waterford.

 

Regretably we have now come to the end of our planned tour and tomorrow must begin the trek back north to Belfast and our ferry on Wednesday. Our friends are returning via Rosslare, which is only about 50 miles from here so will probably remain for another night as they too cross on Wednesday. It's surely a nice place.

Saturday 19 September – Blarney

Today was a “day off”. Late late start to a bright sunny day although the breeze was a bit cool. As we're planning an early start tomorrow, to visit Waterford Glass, thought we'd have Sunday Breakfast today – it feels like Sunday anyway – which of course was actually “brunch”.

Thereafter, got the chairs out and sat in the sun between the vans for the afternoon to enjoy probably the last chance of topping up the tan this year. Of course Jamie still wanted his walks whilst periodically joining Woody (Colin & Tina's Yorkie) shouting at the other dogs on the site! Also discussed our various plans from now on – we of course will be returning north to Belfast whilst our friends will be remaining in the area until their crossing from Rosslare, which is less than 50 miles from Waterford.

A nice salmon salad for tea then another quiet evening just chillin'.

 

Friday 18 September – Kinsale to Blarney

 

Woken by a roadsweeper truck doing his thing along the road where we were parked, to find brilliant bright sunshine with a clear blue sky! We're in no rush today so after breakfast walked into town, taking Jamie this time, for a looksee and maybe a few souvenirs. Kinsale is quite touristy with plenty of bars (of course, it's Ireland!) plus cafes and restaurants together with the usual shops you find in these places. It was quite busy and people were being careful as regards the Covid regulations, keeping their distance with masks etc. in the shops, but still retained the cheerful and friendly aspect we've come to love in this country.

 

With a few purchases made (of course) we returned to the van, some quick refreshment then headed out. Last night we booked a campsite at Blarney for a couple of nights so set TomTom who took us up to then around Cork, past the famous Blarney Castle (decided this time to miss it out) and to a very nice campsite, affiliated to the UK Caravan Club. We had arrived at lunchtime so there was an excellent choice so we took a couple of pitches that promised sunshine for most of the day – and was also right next to the wifi router for Colins football tomorrow!

Once pitched the chairs came out and we enjoyed a cuppa in the sun before a late lunch. Then a quick service of the van before spending the rest of the afternoon getting some long awaited rays and chatting to others on the site, including an Irish couple who had just about completed a van conversion for their first ever motorhome and this was their first time away in it. Gave them lots of advice, not sure how much was absorbed though.

Colin had picked up a leaflet for a Chinese takeway restaurant that delivered to the site so late on we made our choices and phoned them through. Arrived right on time and we were very pleased with the meals – in fact this was the first time we've ever ordered a delivered takeaway. Mustn't get used to it though, not good for the waistline!

By teatime the site had filled up nicely, although there were still a few spaces, mainly Irish taking the opportunity of a promised nice weekend. The sky is still clear and it's starting to get quite cool but we're warm enough in Bertie. More relaxation tomorrow but regrettably we need to start making plans for our return north to the ferry and home.

 

Thursday 17 September – Tregumna to Kinsale

 

Jamie was sick during the night, Bren got up to see to him. Getting up time revealed................. dull, grey and misty again; ah well it couldn't last! So the usual routine, managing to empty the loo and pick up some water – you have to take any opportunity as it arises unless you know exactly where you're going to be at the end of the day, which we rarely are.

Off along the Wild Atlantic Way bumping along the usual back roads we encountered a road closed – that's useful, so we backtracked and went another way, rejoining the route at Rosscarberry. Looked at several places to stop but more and more have developed height barriers however we found roadside parking at Red Strand, a nice sandy beach, so stopped to give the dogs a good run then had lunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of our lunchtime tasks is to investigate potential nightstops but, as mentioned before, suitable places are getting few and far between. We identified a possibility on the WAW at Ring but when we arrived it was basically a small area on the harbour wall, very exposed both visually and weatherwise so gave it a miss. Instead we decided to just head for the campsite we'd identified and have an extra night.

But they were full. That is to say, they were at maximum capacity as allowed for by the Covid regulations even though they were only at 30% capacity. Whilst understanding the problem we pointed out a response to our email or even answering the telephone would have avoided us a diversion. But at least the guy did try and be helpful whilst we were discussing our next move and suggested a spot at Kinsale, which is actually the end/start of the Wild Atlantic Way.

And the sun came out! Think there is a pattern emerging here!

Kinsale is a busy little harbour town and the parking spot, later identified in a couple of our apps, was in bays along the old quay and close to the town centre – free past a certain point. So we settled in with our usual afternoon tea and chat then later walked into the town with a view to fish and chips. We quickly spotted a nice restaurant with a sit-in service so that took care of our evening meal. An ice cream for Tina afterwards (she didn't want the restaurants offering) then a more leisurely amble back to the van. We plan to return into town tomorrow for a proper look around, not so far managing any kind of visit – to be fair, though, because of Covid we hadn't planned to do much “visiting”.

Later Colin came round with news of an available campsite not too far away so we both managed to get booked for tomorrow for 2 nights, resurrecting our original plan.

Wednesday 16 September – Ballydehob to Tragumna

 

 

Another dull dreary and damp morning, it's now starting to get to us with thoughts of returning home early but we'll persevere. A slower start but we managed to empty the loo and refill the water tank – it's just getting rid of rubbish is the problem. Irish folk pay for their waste to be collected commercially and councils therefore don't provide waste bins. This does mean, however, that there is remarkably little litter about – a lesson that could possibly be learned elsewhere? For now, however, we'll just have to carry it with us.

Back onto the Wild Atlantic Way and the next town is Skibbereen where there is a Lidl so needing a few bits and pieces we called in there. €50 later we had a couple of bags including some goodies to try and buck our spirits up a bit. Then a steady ramble along one of the “extensions” down to Baltimore which we thought was not very attractive, well a bit of a dump actually, so backtracked a little then tried another road down to Lough Hyne.

Now this was a lot better, an almost land-locked seawater lake that is popular with watersports fans and was quite busy, even in mid-week. We managed to find room to park, walked the dogs then settled down to lunch. Checking our apps we noted that possible overnighting stops were getting a bit rare but identified somewhere promising in the next inlet along the coast.

This however meant us travelling pretty well all the way back to Skibbereen (love that name!) and rejoining the WAW. Whilst en route Bren noticed a pubstop just a little way past the parking area so we thought we'd investigate the possibility of eating out tonight. However the place looked very closed so we went back to the parking and settled in a corner. Lots of room but there were also quite a few families taking advantage of a micro-beach and apparently very warm water although we didn't investigate personally...........

 

And the sun came out! Very quickly our depression lifted and we got chairs out to enjoy a couple of hours warm sunshine with a cuppa and chat whilst kids played happily on the beach. It only came to an end at teatime when the sun went down behind the hills and a cool breeze sprang up. So we returned inside for tea and our usual evening activities. 

The weather forecast looks promising for tomorrow, but we're not going to get too excited!

Tuesday 15 September – Travara Strand to Ballydehob

 

Jamie got us up at 2.00 am asking to go out – he started nibbling grass, a sure sign he has an upset tummy but fortunately once back inside he was no further trouble. Awoke to a nice morning and soon on our way again on somewhat narrow, twisty roads of questionable surfacing. Then in the space of half an hour we met coming the otherv way more UK-registered motorhomes than we've seen since we left home, some hired but some private and made a guess that they may have been on an accompanied tour.

 

We stopped a couple of times at viewpoints but the weather quickly deteriorated yet again until we were in mist and low cloud with just about zero visibility. We refuelled at Castletownbere then continued past Bantry, looking for somewhere to perhaps stop to visit but as usual the only places suitable, i.e. big enough, for us were a little out of town. Pulled into another viewpoint for a lunch break and made plans for an overnight stop then continued on the WAW in miserable weather. Combined with the poor roads we weren't really enjoying today very much.

Had a look at a potential stopping place at Schull but it was very busy so decided to carry on to Ballydehob which had received a lot of favourable reviews. We initially stopped on the quay but shortly after spaces became free near the railway bridge, which was the recommended parking so decamped there. Just as well because later in the evening a tractor/trailer and digger turned up to clear away a huge mound of building rubbish very close to where we'd stopped, working until late evening! A cuppa and discussion about our plans for later in the week and over the weekend as we're not very far from the end of the Wild Atlantic Way.

Apart from the building noise we passed a quiet evening, with the usual walkies. We're not going to be in any rush from now on and hopefully the weather might improve???

Monday 14 September – Cahersiveen to Travara Strand

 

A decidedly warmer morning with some brightness about around the darker clouds but after a very light brief shower it became a very pleasant day, indeed quite hot when exposed to the sun. Moving on today so after breakfast the usual van service and away 11-ish to finish the Ring of Kerry.

We have to comment on the state of the roads. Although there are a few good ones generally they leave much to be desired, often being more repair than road with potholes just surfaced over. Even where the surface was good often it was very uneven and more than once we were bounced from one hump to the next. This was often followed by the crash of something jumping off a shelf onto the floor – but we suppose it then couldn't fall any further.......... However combined with the narrow twisty roads it was rather exhausting and made for slow progress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As promised, though, the Ring of Kerry is quite dramatic in places and we stopped several times for photos. At this stage we were following a sub-route, the Ring of Beara, being on the Beara peminsular and turned off to Killmakilloge viewpoint, a very small picnic place overlooking a lovely little bay who's waters looked very inviting, and paused for lunch. In all honesty we could have stayed here longer but it was really very small and our two vans took up a lot of the parking space.

 

Whilst parked we consulted our stopover apps to find somewhere nice to overnight and spotted two likely places. The first was Travara Strand which we could reach quite quickly and the other, an allegedly motorhome dedicated place at Castletownbere, which would take a lot longer unless we missed out a sizeable part of the route. So decided to take a look at the first and found a very quiet little fishing harbour with toilets, water and even showers and a kiddies playground, obviously a local amenity site. Plenty of room to park with a lovely view and it took no persuading for us to “drop anchor” here.

Rounded the afternoon off nicely with tea and cake and a chinwag. It turned into a very pleasant late summer evening, something we hope might last at least a few days.

 

 

Saturday/Sunday 12/13 September - Cahersiveen

 

 

Saturday was a bright enough start but of course it didn't last however at least it stayed dry. Even got the chairs out in anticipation! After breakfast Bren went into the town with Colin and Tina whilst Terry did a few domestic chores. Once the shopping was packed away we had a late lunch then spent the afternoon hobbying. Later Colin and Tina came round with cake for an hour chinwag – I should mention here that we had decided to stay an extra night to avoid the possibility of more crowds on Sunday.

Apart from regular walkies that was about it for the day – nothing to write about so I won't!

Sunday was really almost a repeat, apart from the shopping trip, following our usual Sunday Full English Breakfast listening to Steve Wright on Radio 2 via the internet.

 

 

Our afternoon chat included what we were going to do once we'd got to the end of the Wild Atlantic Way, us returning to Belfast for the ferry whilst they were still booked on the Rosslare-Fishguard crossing. Nothing really decided and as we've got until next weekend at least we've put it on the back burner. There's still a lot to see – just wish the weather would buck up a bit. All the forecasters keep predicting warm dry sunny weather but it doesn't seem to be happening here. Packed the chairs away unused.

 

Friday 11 September – Cramore to Cahersiveen

 

It was a bit breezy overnight as we were actually a bit exposed but once again it wasn't cold. An earlyish start and after a problem getting Nellie (the navigation netbook) to play we were away by 10.30, almost immediately into a dull drizzly grey morning which persisted until after lunch. Not long after we'd moved off the smoke alarm went off – low battery warning – upsetting Jamie who wouldn't be settled so were forced to make a couple of stops before we could calm him down. In the mayhem he managed to break Brens bracelet, sending tiny beads everywhere and then the locker door catch decided to join in the fun and went “pingggg” again! Bedlam! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We'd just joined the Ring of Skellig, an offshoot of the Ring of Kerry but were able to find a place to stop and sort things out and enjoy a calming cup of coffee. This turned out to be quite a dramatic road with narrow roads clinging to the cliffs and a couple of steep hills with hairpin bends that nearly caused us problems due to other thoughtless drivers. We crossed over the bridge to the island of Valentia but the weather had really closed in and what views we had were spoiled by the rain. We continued up to Knightstown and used the small ferry to cross back to the main road at Cahersiveen.

This route was chosen because it brought us back to where we'd booked a campsite for a couple of days and as the weather wasn't playing fair we decided to give up for the day and go park ourselves up at the site and have our lunch there. Mannix Point Caravan and Camping site is situated right on the waters edge with full facilities and plenty of room. We chose pitches a row back from the front but still with a good view, mainly to get a little bit of protection but also because they were closer to the (free) wifi router so Colin could watch his football team tomorrow! Except it didn't work!

But then the weather started changing and before long the clouds lifted and it turned out to be quite a pleasant afternoon with the sun even making an appearance late on. We're not very far from the town so we had thoughts of making a foray tomorrow – we both need a bit of shopping anyway. The rest of the day we spent just chilling – we are supposed to be “on holiday”!